WE DESIGN SOAKAWAY & PREPARE STAMPED SOAKAWAY PERMIT DRAWING

WE DESIGN SOAKAWAY

OUR PROFESSIONAL ENGINEERS PREPARE PERMIT DRAWINGS FOR SOAKAWAYS

SOAKAWAY DESIGN GUIDANCE

Engineer examining blueprints at a construction site.

 Installing a soakaway is one of the low-impact development (LID) practices that increases stormwater infiltration into the ground and supports filtration into underground aquifers to limit and prevent flooding, erosion, and sedimentation. 


A soakaway is an underground pit filled with stones and lined and covered with landscaping fabric, which helps stormwater soak into the ground faster. A soakaway is an infiltration trench that serves a single residential lot and which does not receive road runoff. Since the runoff is relatively clear, pre-treatment is not needed for a soakaway.


Soakaway is a rectangular or circular excavation lined with geotextile fabric and filled with clean, uniformly graded granular stone with 40% void capacity 

 or other void-forming material, which receives runoff from a perforated pipe inlet and allows it to infiltrate into the native soil. Soakaway typically services individual residential lots and receives only roof and walkway runoff, but can also be designed to receive overflows from rainwater harvesting systems.


 Typically, the soakaway should be located close to the ground surface; however, this will depend on the depth of storage in the soakaway, the potential for frost heave, and the stratification of the surrounding soil. The potential for frost heave is dependent on the native soils and the volume of water in the soakaway, which may freeze. 


Guidance on the recommended minimum soil cover for various subsurface soakaway depths and native soils is based on professional engineering opinion, the expansion of water because of freezing, and the potential availability of water to freeze. Ice lens formation is not anticipated to occur within the soakaway because of the size of the pores in the storage media.


The roof downspout is extended underground to an excavated soakaway. As per the Ontario Building Code, the base of a soakaway shall be a minimum of 1.0m below building footing, and at least 5m away from the foundation of the nearest building to prevent excessive foundation drainage.


Groundwater mounding calculations may be required to ensure that soakaway pits do not interfere with onsite sewage system leaching beds (septic beds). 


 Conveyance Pipe

The roof leader should extend into the soakaway for the full length of the soakaway. The extension of the roof leader should be perforated to allow water to fill the soakaway along the length of the pipe. The perforated pipe should be located near the surface of the soakaway, 75 mm to 150 mm from the top of the soakaway.  


Roof gutter guards can prevent leaves, sediment, and other debris from clogging the soakaway. An overflow pipe should be installed from the roof leader that discharges to a splash pad. 


A removable filter should be incorporated into the roof leader below the overflow pipe. The filter should have a screened bottom to prevent leaves and debris from entering the soakaway. It should be easy to remove so that a homeowner can clear the filter. Frequent use of the overflow pipe will indicate the need for filter screen maintenance.


The top of a soakaway pit can be planted with grass or plants, or can be designed as a rocky landscape feature.


When our licensed professional engineers design a soakaway, they choose appropriate dimensions for it to be effective to coping with design rainfall events without overflowing. 


Soakaway pit shall provide sufficient storage capacity to accept the stormwater from short, intense rainfall events and sufficient infiltration capability to disperse the stormwater from long, steady rainfall events. 


The performance of a soakaway pit depends on the size and shape of the soakaway and the site-specific hydraulic properties of the soil in which it is founded.

Soakaway pits must have positive outlets should they become saturated or frozen.




  
 

SOAKAWAY DESIGN GUIDANCE

OUR PROFESSIONAL ENGINEERS PREPARE PERMIT DRAWINGS FOR SOAKAWAYS

SOAKAWAY DESIGN GUIDANCE

Two professionals in hard hats reviewing plans on a laptop outdoors.

Common Soakaway 

A common soakaway may be viable in areas with compact built forms. Soakaways are ideal for small yards. Soakaways are usually more compact than rain gardens, which cover more land/surface. For many suburban properties, long trench soakaways often fit the narrow strips of land between driveways. 

The common soakaway can be located along the rear lot lines of residential lots. 


Water Table Depth

The depth from the bottom of the soakaway to the estimated seasonally high water table should be greater than or equal to 1.0m.


Depth to Bedrock

The depth from the bottom of the soakaway to the bedrock should be greater than or equal to 1.0m.


Soils

Soakaway can be used where soils have a percolation rate greater than 15 mm/h. This generally includes all soils coarser than a loam.


Storage Configuration

The length and width of a soakaway are dependent on the configuration of the development. The length of a soakaway (dry well) in the direction of inflow should be maximized compared to the width to ensure the proper distribution of water into the entire soakaway and to minimize the potential for groundwater mounding.


The permeability of the native soil will dictate the maximum allowable underground storage depth of a soakaway. Storage depths greater than 1.5m are generally not recommended for a soakaway from both a cost and a compaction perspective. The weight of the water in a deep soakaway will compact the surrounding native soil and decrease the infiltration capacity of the soakaway.


There are exceptions, however, to this maximum depth recommendation for a soakaway. In areas with deep sand lenses or significant horizontal soil stratification, a deep soakaway may be preferred. If, for example, a sand lens is located at a depth of 2m, it would be advantageous to construct a deep soakaway that drains into the lens. Soil investigations should be undertaken to determine whether these conditions exist.


 For a soakaway accepting only roof drainage, the potential for clogging is low, as is the risk of groundwater quality degradation. 


CONSTRUCTION INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Mark off the area where the soakaway will be located, and do not allow equipment to travel over this area, which would compact the soil.
  2. Install a soakaway after site construction has occurred and the site has been stabilized to prevent sedimentation and/or damage from construction activity. If the construction of the soakaway cannot be delayed, the soakaway location must be protected with a berm, silt fence, or a compost sock to prevent sediment from collecting in the area.
  3. The soakaway bottom must be uniform, level, uncompacted, and free from rocks and debris. Do NOT compact subgrade. Excavation should be performed with the lightest practical equipment, and the excavation equipment should be located outside the limits of the soakaway.
  4. Completely wrap the soakaway with nonwoven geotextile. If sediment and/or debris have accumulated in the soakaway bottom, remove prior to geotextile placement. 
  5. Install continuously perforated pipe, observation wells, and all other soakaway structures. Connect the roof leader/downspout to the perforated pipe.
  6. Place uniformly graded, clean-washed aggregate in 0.3m lifts. Compact lightly between lifts.
  7. Fold and secure nonwoven geotextile over trench, with a minimum overlap of 0.6m.
  8. Place 0.3m of topsoil cover over the soakaway.
  9. Seed and stabilize topsoil.
  10. Connect the overflow pipe to the downspout and position it over the splash block.

OUR PROFESSIONAL ENGINEERS PREPARE PERMIT DRAWINGS FOR SOAKAWAYS

OUR PROFESSIONAL ENGINEERS PREPARE PERMIT DRAWINGS FOR SOAKAWAYS

OUR PROFESSIONAL ENGINEERS PREPARE PERMIT DRAWINGS FOR SOAKAWAYS

Two construction workers in safety gear reviewing a laptop outdoors.

Storage Media

The soakaway is comprised of 19 mm diameter or larger clean uniformly graded granular stone with 40% void capacity or other void-forming material. Non-woven geotextile landscape filter fabric should be used to line the soakaway to prevent the pore space between the stones from being blocked by the surrounding native material.


Soakaway has both benefits and drawbacks compared to rear yard ponding. The benefits of a soakaway include greater recharge (less evapotranspiration) and less inconvenience to the homeowner (less surface water ponding). The drawbacks of a soakaway include regular maintenance and uncertain longevity.


Development standards allow foundation drains to be connected to the storm sewer. Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing's alternative standards allow the use of sump pumps to discharge foundation drainage to the surface or soakaway. Because foundation drainage is relatively clear water, the cost of stormwater management and sewage treatment can be reduced by keeping it separate from storm and sanitary sewers. The municipality should be contacted before recommending this type of control, as its use may not be permitted.


In areas where the seasonally high water table is within 1.0m of the building foundation drains, sump pumps should not be utilized. This requirement is imposed to prevent excessive sump pump operation and to prevent a looped system whereby the sump pump discharges maintain the foundation drainage. Where the use of sump pumps is not feasible, a "third pipe" may be used to convey foundation drainage to the receiving water.


In areas where the depth to bedrock is within 1.0m of the foundation drain elevation, foundation drainage by sump pumps is not permitted to prevent excessive sump pump operation and a looped system.


A soakaway should be located a minimum of 5m away from all building foundations to minimize the contribution of soakaway drainage to foundation drainage. 


If the foundation drains are being discharged directly to the surface, the discharge point at the ground surface should be located at least 2m away from all building foundations, and there should be sufficient grade from the foundation wall away from the building (≥ 2%) for 2 m to 4m to convey the foundation drainage away.


Discharges to the surface are usually directed to the rear yard to minimize the amount of surface drainage over sidewalks during the winter. Sump pumps discharging to the surface should discharge approximately 0.5 m above the ground surface to prevent blockages in the winter due to ice and snow.


Every soakaway must have one area drain. Soakaways in excess of 8m² must have additional drains on the surface to provide for greater surface drainage, a pump-out point, and to serve as a reminder for current and future owners that the facility exists.


 Stamped Engineering Report

A report, stamped, signed, and dated by a qualified professional engineer, is required for municipal approval of a soakaway. The report shall provide data from a percolation test indicating that the soils are suitable, a drawdown time of 48 hours, the sizing is correct for a 25mm rainfall event, and a suitable runoff coefficient and a factor of safety have been determined. 


It is recommended that a conservative drawdown time of 48 hours be chosen, recognizing that the percolation rates into the surrounding soil will decrease over time and that there will likely be a lack of maintenance in some cases. Longer drain-down times reduce the efficiency of a soakaway and can lead to anaerobic conditions, odour, and other problems. 




If deemed necessary, the stamped Engineering Design of a Soakaway would cost $1,295⁺ʰˢᵗ, and if inevitably required, a Stormwater Management Brief would cost $1,895⁺ʰˢᵗ.


If a soakaway is being proposed, a test pit may be required by the municipality to confirm the clearance of the water table and soil percolation. Our fee to visit the site to observe the depth of the groundwater table and sampling and lab analysis of one soil sample would be $695⁺ʰˢᵗ 


We have designed so many soakaways for development projects in the following municipalities:


County of Brant, City of Brantford, City of Chatham-Kent, Haldimand County, City of Hamilton, Norfolk County, City of Kawartha Lakes, City of Toronto


REGIONAL MUNICIPALITIES

Durham

    City of Oshawa, City of Pickering, Municipality of Clarington, Town of Ajax, Town of Whitby, Township of Brock, Township of Scugog, Township of Uxbridge

Halton

    City of Burlington, Town of Halton Hills, Town of Milton, Town of Oakville

Niagara

    City of Niagara Falls, City of Port Colborne, City of St. Catharines, City of Thorold, City of Welland, Town of Fort Erie, Town of Grimsby, Town of Lincoln, Town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, Town of Pelham, Township of Wainfleet, Township of West Lincoln

Peel

    City of Brampton, City of Mississauga, Town of Caledon

Waterloo

    City of Cambridge, City of Kitchener, City of Waterloo, Township of North Dumfries, Township of Wellesley, Township of Wilmot, Township of Woolwich

York

    City of Vaughan, Town of Aurora, Town of East Gwillimbury, Town of Georgina, City of Markham, Town of Newmarket, City of Richmond Hill, Town of Whitchurch-Stouffville, Township of King


COUNTIES

Dufferin

    Town of Grand Valley, Town of Mono, Town of Orangeville, Town of Shelburne, Township of Amaranth, Township of East Garafraxa, Township of Melancthon, Township of Mulmur

Elgin

    City of St Thomas, Municipality of Bayham, Municipality of Central Elgin, Municipality of Dutton/Dunwich, Municipality of West Elgin, Town of Aylmer, Township of Malahide, Township of Southwold

Hastings

    City of Belleville, City of Quinte West, Municipality of Centre Hastings, Municipality of Hastings Highlands, Municipality of Marmora and Lake, Municipality of Tweed,  Town of Bancroft, Town of Deseronto, Township of Carlow/Mayo, Township of Faraday, Township of Limerick, Township of Madoc, Township of Stirling-Rawdon, Township of Tudor & Cashel, Township of Tyendinaga, Township of Wollaston

Northumberland

    Municipality of Brighton, Town of Cobourg, Municipality of Port Hope, Municipality of Trent Hills, Township of Alnwick/Haldimand, Township of Cramahe, Township of Hamilton

Oxford

    City of Woodstock,  Town of Ingersoll, Town of Tillsonburg, Township of Blandford Blenheim, Township of East Zorra-Tavistock, Township of Norwich, Township of South-West Oxford, Township of Zorra

Peterborough

    City of Peterborough, Township of Asphodel-Norwood, Township of Cavan Monaghan, Township of Douro-Dummer, Township of Havelock-Belmont-Methuen, Township of North Kawartha, Township of Otonabee-South Monaghan, Township of Selwyn, Municipality of Trent Lakes

Simcoe

    City of Barrie, City of Orillia, Town of Bradford West Gwillimbury,  Town of Collingwood,  Town of Innisfil, Town of Midland, Town of New Tecumseth, Town of Penetanguishene, Town of Wasaga Beach, Township of Adjala-Tosorontio, Township of Clearview, Township of Essa, Township of Oro-Medonte, Township of Ramara, Township of Severn, Township of Springwater, Township of Tay, Township of Tiny

Wellington

    City of Guelph, Town of Erin, Town of Minto, Township of Centre Wellington, Township of Guelph-Eramosa, Township of Mapleton, Township of Puslinch, Township of Wellington North

Perth

City of Stratford, Municipality of North Perth, Town of St. Marys, Township of Perth East, Township of Perth South, Municipality of West Perth

Middlesex

City of London, Municipality of North Middlesex, Municipality of Southwest Middlesex, Municipality of Thames Centre, Township of Adelaide Metcalfe, Township of Lucan Biddulph, Township of Middlesex Centre, Township of Strathroy - Caradoc, Village of NewburyHuron

Municipality of Bluewater, Municipality of Central Huron, Municipality of Huron East, Municipality of Morris-Turnberry, Municipality of South Huron, Town of Goderich, Township of Ashfield-Colborne-Wawanosh, Township of Howick, Township of North Huron

Bruce

Municipality of Arran Elderslie, Municipality of Brockton, Municipality of Kincardine, Municipality of Northern Bruce Peninsula, Municipality of South Bruce, Town of Saugeen Shores, Town of South Bruce Peninsula, Township of Huron-Kinloss

Grey

City of Owen Sound, Town of The Blue Mountains, Town of Hanover, Municipality of Meaford, Township of Chatsworth, Township of Georgian Bluffs, Municipality of Grey Highlands, Township of Southgate, Municipality of West Grey

Haliburton

Township of Algonquin Highlands, Municipality of Dysart et al, Municipality of Highlands East, Township of Minden Hills

District of Muskoka

Town of Gravenhurst, Town of Bracebridge, Town of Huntsville, Township of Muskoka Lakes, Township of Lake of Bays, Township of Georgian Bay

Contact Us

Rain Garden


Rain Gardens


Stormwater runoff is the water that runs over and off the land during a rainstorm or snowmelt, rather than soaking in. A rain garden is a landscaped feature that replaces an area of the lawn in order to collect the stormwater and melted snow. Rain gardens capture and filter stormwater, helping to reduce runoff. The shallow depression of the rain garden has loose, deep soil that absorbs and naturally filters the runoff, preventing it from entering the storm drain system and, eventually, the waterways. Compared to a patch of lawn, a rain garden allows about 30% more water to soak into the ground!


Rain gardens are not only beautiful and creative, but they are also functional. Planting a rain garden helps maintain the natural water cycle while protecting local rivers, lakes, fish, and drinking water sources.


Rain gardens:

• Limit the amount of water that enters the local storm drain system.

• Reduce the potential for flooding, drainage problems, and stream bank erosion.

• Reduce the quantity of pollutants that run from our yards and roads straight into our waterways.

• Restore and recharge our groundwater system.

• Are low maintenance. They are planted with beautiful, hardy plants that require little to no watering.

• Attract birds, butterflies, and beneficial insects, such as mosquito-consuming dragonflies.

• Complement any style of landscape and enhance the beauty of the surrounding neighbourhood.


Rain gardens require four elements:

•A source of stormwater runoff, such as a downspout.

•An absorbent soil mix.

•Full, or partial sun.

•Native plants that are both water-tolerant and drought-tolerant.


Properly constructed rain gardens are designed to allow overflow in a large. rain event and hold standing water for no more than 48 hours. Rain gardens complement any style of landscape and can be adapted to personal preferences. They can be large or small and can take advantage of pockets of space in the yard.


Once a shallow depression is dug for the rain garden, it won’t be any more expensive than planting other landscaped areas in the yard. Most of the recommended plants can be purchased at local nurseries, and maintain them just like any other plants in the yard. We recommend using native plants, which, once established, will require less water and no fertilization.


A rain garden is not a pond, and when properly constructed, the water will drain within 48 hours, but usually faster. Mosquitoes won’t find rain gardens to be good breeding areas because they need much more time to lay and hatch eggs.


Rain gardens should be built at least 3m (10ft) away from any foundation with a pipe or trench directing the water to the garden.

Rain gardens should never be placed within 4m (12ft) of a septic bed, and if uphill of a septic system, they should be at least 15m(50ft) away.

Rain gardens placed near any type of steep slope (more than 15%) have the potential to cause landslides because of the excess water being absorbed into the soil. Rain gardens should not be installed within 15m (50ft) of any steep slopes on or around the property.


A rain garden is best for flat areas or gentle slopes and should not be located under mature trees. Placing stones where the downspout enters the rain garden helps slow the flow of stormwater entering the rain garden, eliminating potential erosion. Gently slope the rain garden away from the house and incorporate a safe overflow path for more intense storms.


Dig 10cm to 30cm (4"-12") deep in the designated rain garden area and refill the bed with a loose, pervious soil mix that allows water to filter through it, but also provides enough nutrients for flood-tolerant plant life to grow.


It is common for rain gardens to be topped with coarse wood chips to help cut down on weeds while also creating voids for stormwater to seep through.


A rain garden will retain water for many hours after a rain event, so choose plants that will tolerate extended periods of flooding. Rain garden plants need to tolerate both wet and dry conditions. This is because rain gardens experience alternate flooding following a large rain storm and drought during periods of low rainfall. Any combination of flowers, shrubs, grasses or ferns that meet these criteria will do well in a rain garden. Native plants are always recommended for rain gardens because they are well-suited to local growing conditions and support local wildlife, including birds and butterflies.


Choose a variety of plants, including shrubs, flowers, and grasses, to create variety in colour, height, and texture.

Consider the year-round look of the rain garden – clumping grasses will hold their shape throughout the winter, and many types of shrubs develop striking red branches in the colder months.

Consider the existing landscape and the landscaping of the surrounding neighbourhood.

If the rain garden is near the road, consider sight lines and setbacks.


If the yard is small and the soil contains a lot of clay, then a rain garden may not be the best option. Clay soils are not easily penetrated by water, and your rain garden could end up overflowing more often than not. Clay soil drainage can be somewhat improved by the addition of compost. When choosing plants, look for native species that are tolerant to both dry and wet conditions, but most importantly, they need to be tolerant of occasional flood-like conditions.


The following is a list of native wild plants for rain gardens, identified based on the light conditions they grow well in:


Grasses

big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) – sun, partial sun

Canada wild rye (Elymus Canadensis) – sun, partial sun, shade

tufted hairgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa) – sun, partial sun

little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – sun


Flowering herbaceous plants

wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – sun, partial sun

butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberose) – sun

white turtlehead (Chelone glabra) – sun, partial sun, shade

showy tick-trefoil (Desmodium canadense) – sun, partial sun

spotted Joe-pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum) – sun, partial sun

oxeye sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides) – sun

wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) – sun, partial sun

black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) – sun, partial sun

New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) – sun, partial sun

swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) – sun, partial sun


Shrubs

red-osier dogwood (Cornus sericea) – sun, partial sun

eastern ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) – sun, partial sun

nannyberry (Viburnum lentago) – sun

common elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) – sun, partial sun


There are a few demonstration rain gardens in the Greater Toronto Area that you can visit for inspiration:


Humber Arboretum (205 Humber College Boulevard, Toronto)

County Court demonstration rain garden (71 Turtlecreek Boulevard, Brampton)

Kortright Centre for Conservation, Archetype House Gardens (9520 Pine Valley Drive, Vaughan)

Markham Museum (9350 Markham Road, Markham)

Lake Wilcox demonstration rain gardens (20 Wheatsheaf Street, Richmond Hill, and 95 Wheelright Drive, Richmond Hill).


Contact Us

Drop us a line!

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Better yet, see us in person!

 For Additional Information, please contact our key design team members:


  • Miaoyi Xue, P.Eng,
  • Joo Min Park, MEng, P.Eng.
  • Wei Ming Lin, P.Eng
  • Rui Cong Xia, P.Eng


Email:   Landbuildex@gmail.com


Land Line: 905 940 9937


Text Messages: 647 877 8262


Professional Engineers Ontario - Certificate of Authorization # 100205934

LAND DEVELOPMENT EXPERTS

570 Alden Road, Markham, Ontario L3R 8N5, Canada

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